Where am I?

First Impressions

Initially, getting around in Beijing seems impossible. Road signs are incomprehensible, promising alleyways twist and turn into unpromising dead-ends, and the buses are so crowded you can't see where you are, let alone get off.

First, arm yourself with a good map. Your guidebook will give you the basics, but if you are doing anything other than the tourist usuals, a transport mapjiaotong ditu - transport map, boringly enough of the city will be essential. These are available for 4Y from the white and blue newspaper stands you see dotted around the city. They are entirely in Chinese, but if you get someone to circle your destination you can simply point at it in taxischuzuqiche - 'rent out steam vehicle', busesgonggongqiche - 'public together steam vehicle' and anywhere you get lost while walking zoulu 'walk road' or cycling.

Second thoughts

Beijing actually has an extensive and efficent public transport system, and the proposed addition of over a dozen new subway ditie, short for dixia tielu, which means 'ground under iron road and light rail lines before the 2008 Olympics will make life even easier (although the construction period should be fun). Once you figure out which subway stopditie zhan you need to get off at, and which big building means you should get off the bus, things become much less bewildering. Taxi drivers are almost always honest and polite - the only ones to avoid are those who tout around tourist attractions and bus or rail stations. I have never once had to ask a driver to turn on the meter.

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