Is there anything you wish you'd known about Beijing before you moved?

[LesleySher]

Hello everybody!

 

I'm planning on coming to Beijing in two months to work as an English teacher 

 

I have a question for people who moved out there (especially if you've been out there a while) - is there anything you wish you had known about living in Beijing before moving out there, and what information did you wish you had had before you left home?

 

Even if it's just a small thing I'd be really interested to know :-)

 

Lesley

[roddy]

The city is massive, and public transport can be slow and unpleasant at peak times. Work out commute time and get opinions on what the journey will be like before sorting out accommodation. 

 

Which part of the city are you going to?

[gato]

The pollution will take some getting used to, if you are used to blue skies.

[Lu]

If you happen to wear hard contact lenses, consider bringing glasses or changing to soft lenses for a while. With the pollution, the dry air and the dust, it's more comfortable. (This really is a small thing, but well.)

[Nathan Mao]

Consider buying a protective mask (commonly called a gas mask) that can filter out the pollution particles.

 

Anecdotal only, but I have a friend who bought one before going to China.  His Chinese wife mocked him, but 2 days into the trip, she started asking if they could share.  And everywhere they went, local residents asked where they could get one, too.

 

Although I think that was in Shanghai...should work for Beijing, too.  My in-laws live in Beijing, and I've told me wife I want to buy them all a set of masks and ship them there.  She hasn't taken me up on it yet, tho.

[Nathan Mao]

Also, on the Beijing public television channel, they have some great programs...one chooses a specific street or even a specific block of one street and then delves deeply into the history of that locale.  Interesting stuff.

Another introduces all the different eating establishments with well-loved or special menu items.  So after you arrive, leave that channel on in your place for background noise as much as possible, and be prepared to stop and watch when something fascinating comes on.

 

Watch out for scammers when you go to tourist areas.  They target foreigners.

 

For example, one guy wanted me to write the English translation of some Chinese on his sign.  Had I done so, he would have demanded a ridiculously high payment for "ruining" his sign.  I was still trying to figure out what he wanted when my father-in-law pulled me away.

[Demonic_Duck]

For example, one guy wanted me to write the English translation of some Chinese on his sign. Had I done so, he would have demanded a ridiculously high payment for "ruining" his sign.

I'm not saying this scam has never been attempted (I have no idea whether it has or not, though I don't think it's one of the more well-known ones), but I've had friends who have helped peddlars translate signs into English before and been repaid with gratitude. How do you know this guy was trying to scam you?

[Nathan Mao]

My father-in-law said so and I believed him.

[Lu]

Here is a good thread about scams to watch out for.

[James3]

I've not moved yet, but I've been toying with the idea. And, based on my experience of meeting several language exchange partners who all live in Beijing, and becoming good friends with them over time, I'd suggest you meet - and get to know well - several language exchange partners.

 

You may already have friends, or some other type of support network there, I don't know. All I know is when 2 of my language exchange partners offered to let me stay with them, I could practically feel all my fears and concerns (regarding moving there) ebb away, as I realized I now have life-long friends there. There's nothing like feeling like you already have good friends living in the city you're about to visit or live in.

[PBolchover]

It took me several years before I dared to use a bus - mainly because the bus stops are all in characters.

http://map.sogou.com/

is a very good site for planning a trip via public transport (including buses) - click the 公共 link above the textbox.  If you don't know your address in characters, you can try a random address, and then drag-and-drop the pins on the map.

[PBolchover]

• Once you arrive, buy a copy of the "Insider's Guide to Beijing" - this has lots of advice for expats arriving in the city
• Buy a set of taxi cards (a small booklet with addresses in Chinese), or get it as an app on your phone
• I found it very useful to buy a street-map book (like an "A-Z"), with street names in both English and Chinese

 

• If you need to claim anything on expenses, you will need a fapiao - an official stamped tax receipt
• When looking for an apartment, ask where the nearest large supermarket is.  Also try to find out where the nearest place that stocks western goods is
• Chinese beds are extremely hard - plan to buy a mattress topper from Ikea after you arrive
• Western credit cards don't work in most places in Beijing (even for shops which say "Visa" on the window - they will accept Visa from Chinese Banks, but not western ones).  Plan to do most of your shopping in cash (including your first taxi ride from the airport).    You can use your credit card in ATMs.
• Don't drink the water - even to wash your teeth.  (You can buy a water cooler for your apartment, and get the barrels delivered)

 

But, most importantly, don't be put off by the scare stories.  Beijing is a big city, and not too different from any other big city in the world.  Certain areas are extremely westernised, and you could expect to see 20%+ of the people on the street to be foreigners. 

 

Paul

[tysond]

Get a bike on day 1.  Try to make sure you can commute to your work on bike.  More relaxing and interesting way to travel.

 

Also look every direction at intersections at all times.  I was hit lightly by a car my first week in Beijing, who was doing something I didn't expect.

[ChTTay]

Agree with a lot of the above.

A mask would be useful, especially if you buy that bike on day 1. You can get masks of varying quality out here. A fair few foreigners walk a round like terminator with Respro (?) but even more opt for "totobobo" masks. They would be my choice. You might be able to buy them online before you go or get one here. Most Chinese people just use the 3M temporary masks that you might see on a construction site. I also use these. They have about 2 weeks use in them

As for the bike, probably best not to buy a shiny, expensive new one unless you have a place within your work and home you can safely keep it. Bike theft is rife in Beijing. There are adds online for second hand bikes. Also, you can buy cheap bikes here (300rmb) that last about a year or two. Less likely to be stolen. That being said, my bike is a rust bucket frankenstein bike and was stolen. I found it a month later and stole it back though. They were still using the lock I bought and had the keys for.

Take a look at thebeijinger website before you come to get an idea whats going on in the city and where.

As above, Beijing is massive. Think about logistics when deciding where to live and work. I imagine your school might be providing an apartment near the school anyway OR may help you find one.

As for water, everyone I know uses it for washing teeth and washing vegetables/meat. I agree with not drinking it. I usually wash fruit or things i'm not going to cook with purified water or boiled water. For drinking water, get a cooler or if you plan to be here a while you can get filters that fit under your sink. They filter water directly. Mine works.

Dry weather / pollution. Good advice about contact lenses above. Also wanted to add, if you are susceptible to sinus inflammation and/or headaches, it would be worthwhile bringing decongestant medicine (OTC) and perhaps a saline nasal spray. I also find this herbal decongestant "Olbas oil" to be a life saver. Its just a mix of different herbal essences. You can put drops on tissue or, my preference, add it to boiling water and inhale the steam (towel over head to keep steam in). Anyway, I get sinus headaches in the UK so the dryness of Beijing doesn't help much. I know a few people who came here and it took them a while to adjust to how dry it is. Some people have no problems though.

Google maps is in English and has complete, reliable bus information (at least in my experience). Usually tells you the number of stops and also the final destination stop (make a note of it). Most of the newer buses have English announcements but the name of the place is still Chinese. Some have electric displays too you can read.

Where is your school located?

[Demonic_Duck]

All I know is when 2 of my language exchange partners offered to let me stay with them, I could practically feel all my fears and concerns (regarding moving there) ebb away, as I realized I now have life-long friends there.

Not to put a damper on your idea to move (I did and certainly didn't regret it one bit, though I suspect my situation was rather different), but even if they're lifelong friends, there's certainly no guarantee that they'll be lifelong friends in Beijing. People living in Beijing tend to be very mobile on the whole, and will often just stay in the city for a few years. This is the case more with 外地人, i.e. "out-of-towners", but I've known friends who were native Beijingers move elsewhere as well.

 

Don't drink the water - even to wash your teeth.

I've been brushing my teeth with Beijing Water^TM for the best part of two years and not suffered for it. Drinking it unboiled is a definite no-no, though.

 

But, most importantly, don't be put off by the scare stories.  Beijing is a big city, and not too different from any other big city in the world.  Certain areas are extremely westernised, and you could expect to see 20%+ of the people on the street to be foreigners.

In some areas (*cough* Sanlitun a.k.a. Sanleetoon *cough*) this is certainly true, but in other areas you can walk for miles and likely not see another foreign face. What this means is that, to a certain extent, you can choose how "Chinese" your experience is in Beijing.

 

Also look every direction at intersections at all times.  I was hit lightly by a car my first week in Beijing, who was doing something I didn't expect.

I'll second this advice. Drivers will certainly "do things you don't expect", which is a euphemistic way of saying they'll flagrantly break traffic laws, even if there's a cop-car nearby (cops do nothing about traffic violations). They also seem to think they have right of way at pedestrian crossings, no matter what colour any lights are showing.

[Nathan Mao]

This is not something you need to know about Beijing, but the talk of cars stimulated the thought:

 

It sure has been interesting seeing the way cars have progressed over the years in China from 1998 (my first trip) to 2013 (my most recent trip).

 

Back in 1998, pretty much only officials had cars.  Common people took the bus, rode bicycles, took taxis, or walked.

 

In 2000, semi-wealthy families had cars...mostly 夏利。

 

Then by 2003/2004, people were parking on the sidewalks, because so many people had cars. Seemed like most everyone, but it has gotten worse...

[ChTTay]

Oh! Also, you said you are coming to teach...

Depending on the level and your experience you may want a book like "Scrivener: English Grammar and how to teach it" or something else quite practical / with ideas.

Also, blu tack comes is really handy ... Not sure your home country has that anyway. I know teachers who get it posted to them after they realize how useful it would be. You can get it on taobao too.

Pictures of your home and family to show students when you introduce yourself to them. That probably depends on the size lf the class and their age.

[icebear]

I've been living in Beijing for a total of 4 years, over a few stints. Things I wish I'd done/known right when I arrived, that instead took a year or more to figure out. These things have a big impact on quality of life.

• Location - live within ~20 minutes of your job by your preferred means of transport. Living further away in Beijing just isn't worth it, no matter how nice the apartment or neighborhood - more and more time on the hectic roads or jammed subways will chip away at your spirit, especially come winter when things get very dreary down there! If possible, try to make that in between where you work and where you or your friends enjoy spending time. E.g. - if you work along the east 3rd ring, and much of your evenings are inside the second ring (common for many foreigners), live along the east second ring rather than along/outside the east 4th ring. Many people make this mistake, thinking they'll just pop into the city center whenever they are inclined - after a few weeks dealing with traffic hassle you may turn into a recluse!
• Buy a bike and a scooter - even if staying for a year or so, the scooter can be easily sold. Huge gains in your sense of freedom and willingness to explore/go out even when you know traffic or crowds will be bad on the metro/buses/taxis.
• If thinking of living on your own, look at 2 bedrooms as well as 1 bedrooms. The cost difference is usually only 10-20%, for a big improvement in size and even quality. More importantly, there will simply be a much larger selection to go off of. Think about it - most apartment stock in Beijing is geared towards families with one child, or newly married planning on having a child some day. 
• Spend a lot of time in the hutongs. Make a few friends there too. I personally am not enamored with living in the hutongs (some are, with good reason), but spending time there is always very pleasant. Find a few hutong cafes/restaurants to make your "own", rather than in the modern malls.

I'd also suggest looking at this great list - especially the last item.

[tysond]

One more thing, I don't think it was mentioned.  Do some reading on Chinese history.

 

http://chinahistorypodcast.com/ is a wonderful resource and listening to some of these before you come or even on the plane would be very valuable way to ensure you understand something of what you will see (at tourist sites but also to some degree every day) in the context of Chinese history.  

 

One thing I did before coming was print out a big copy of a map of Beijing, and studied it.  I also read up on the historical locations and sights.  Understanding where the old city wall was (now the 2nd ring road), how the city is laid out (north/south/east/west in ancient times), how the transport is structured (the ring roads) some history behind them will put things into perspective and help you get around.  There are historical reasons things are where they are - e.g. why hutongs are inside the second road, why the embassies (and hence the international bars and restaurants) are in certain areas (mostly not inside the second).

 

Half the fun of living in Beijing is the history that has left a mark on the city.  

[xuexiansheng]

@icebear

Good article for china newbies, my favorite quote:

• Explore the cuisine. No matter where you are in China (with the possible exception of Anhui province, which I'm convinced is the only place in China without an outstanding cuisine) you'll be surrounded by incredibly good food.

Ah, Anhui! My old stomping grounds and home of greasy/salty cuisine. So sad and true...